Judi Stauffer
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bandhini and shibori

6/29/2014

3 Comments

 
Picture
So many Bandhini scarves
Picture
Two natural dyed scarves
Today I became acquainted with the beautiful tie and dye process of India known as Bandhini and Shibori.

Bhandini is one of the oldest forms of surface embellishment done on textiles with references dating back to the Jain Manuscripts. The meticulous process is created mainly by the Khatri artisans. I was introduced to this meticulous process through a traditional chitarnar (artist / designer) who draws the patterns on the fabric — sometimes floral, abstracted circles and zig-zags, figures, animals, birds or trees. The chitamar I was introduced to works with about 300 women and men to produce her exquisite designs.

The fabric is speckled with tiny square-shaped dots (bindi) typically done by women knotters (bandnari), who tediously pinch and resist tie the silk with thin threads before it is dyed.

 Customarily, the dyeing is done by men — ranganaar or dyer — who dye the textile pieces in either natural vegetable or man-made dyes. Their proficiency is seen in the hues and balanced blending of color that is radiated from the material.

Shibori is another tie and dye method that creates pattern by binding, stitching, folding, twisting or compressing cloth. The method is generally determined by the characteristics of the cloth used.

The gorgeous scarves and shawls shown in a trunk show were from the region of Gujarat, which is renowned for its textiles. Though hard to decide because the colors are so sumptuous, I finally decided on two natural pigmented scarves — one to be a gift. Mine was dyed using purpurin, which is only present in the natural form of madder and imparts an orange/red tone. The other was dyed using indigo. 
3 Comments
CINDYO link
7/1/2014 01:01:39 am

Beautiful, Judi! Shibori actually originated in Japan & when I was there I was able to see how their intricate designs are done. The resist 'dots' in this case are created by fine thread & cloth being wrapped around one grain of rice! I follow the work of a yarn/textile company in NYC that brings in fantastic examples of Japanese artisan cloth & unique yarns. The man who started this company recognized the unique handcrafted work of his country's weavers, spinners, & dyers.

India also holds a wealth of textile artisans that, like artisans around the world, go unrecognized or are copied by mass production processes. Thank you for sharing this beautiful work of one who obviously cares deeply for the handmade aspect of the textile arts.

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judi link
7/1/2014 01:33:42 am

Cindy, thank you for further information. Do you know when and through whom Shibori was brought to India . . . or, was it independently developed in both countries? Inquiring minds . . .

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Washington Lesbians link
12/31/2022 08:18:38 pm

Great read thanks for sharing this

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    I am an artist and writer who aims to live life consciously and creatively with no "Plan B." My musings include experiences from my travels as well as those who inspire me.

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